About Ethiopia

About Ethiopia

Ethiopian Culture

Ethiopia is rightly known for its culture. Home to an orthodox Christian tradition that stretches as far back as 333, its rock churches, its historic civilisations, and its many customs are quite simply extraordinary.

However, if that were all, then we would be ignoring the religions, histories and traditions of a large part of the population. Home to 100 million plus people, just under a half of Ethiopia is Ethiopian orthodox, while a 2nd is Muslim, a 4th Protestant, and the rest ranging from Catholic to Judaic to indigenous religions. On top of this, there are over 80 ethnic groups in Ethiopia, and 82 spoken languages, of which Amharic is lingua franca and Oromo the largest.

Possessing a rich and complex history, Ethiopia is a veritable cultural melting pot, and Wild Expeditions is part-owned and run by individuals who were born into it, have grown up with it, and understand it intimately. As such, as well as exploring the very best of the Northern Circuit, we organise trips journeys into the much less travelled south and east, spending time among the indigenous cultures of the Omo Valley, the Oromo of central Ethiopia, and the largely Islamic cultures of the north-eastern, eastern and south-eastern peripheries. In short, we help people explore some of the lesser-known wonders this country has to offer - as well as the more well known.
About Ethiopia

Ways of the Omo

The Omo Valley has long been the home of a range of Afro-Asiatic and Nilo-Saharan tribes, including the Kara, the Mursi, and the Hamar, all of which are representative of some of the world’s greatest genetic variances. Primarily agro-pastoralists, the Omo River is their lifeline, its annual floods natural irrigator of fields of sorghum, staple diet for most. Their traditions largely unchanged, their customs are a source of anthropological fascination, a window onto a past much of the rest of the world began to leave behind 10,000 years ago.

Unfortunately, these are also vulnerable cultures. Decades of exploitative tourism has resulted in cultural degradation. The damming of the river has seen an unprecedented failure of the floods. Partnering with the Kara and others, Wild Expeditions champions travel designed to act as a catalyst for sustainable development in the region, and so empower local communities to make decisions about how to protect their livelihoods, cultures and futures.

The Old Testament

Unless travelling through the Omo and the traditional Muslim areas in the south and east of the country, Ethiopia feels enormously Christian. As a rough rule of thumb, the highlands are Christian, the surrounding lowlands Muslim. Having evolved out of Axumite Judaism, and in relative isolation, Orthodox Ethiopian Christianity is shaped by ancient Judaic traditions, and by the belief that Ethiopia is home to the original Ark of the Covenant, brought to Axum - so says the Solomonic epic Kebra Nagast – by Menelik, Soloman and the Queen of Sheba’s lovechild. The result is a culture dominated by the myth of the Solomonic dynasty, which claims an unbroken line of 237 kings, from Menelik I through to the deposition of Haile Selassie in 1974.

As well as exploring the rock churches of the likes of Lalibela and throughout Gehralta, Wild Expeditions organises trips designed to immerse the traveller in a culture permeated by belief, by ceremony, and by a way of life that, especially in the rural highlands, continues in much the same vein as it has always done. As many a traveller will attest, travelling Orthodox Christian Ethiopia is akin to stepping into the Bible’s Old Testament.

Secrets of the East

Islam has long been a significant part of the cultural fabric of Ethiopia. It is said that the Axumite Kingdom offered refuge to a group of persecuted Muslim Arabs in the 7th century, and that, in return, the Prophet Mohammed decreed that Ethiopia was to be excused jihad.

True or not, ethnic groups in Ethiopia that are today wholly Muslim include the southeast-based Somali, the Danakil’s Afar, the Harari of Harar, and some smaller western periphery-based groups. At the same time, many ethnic groups are part Muslim, most notably the Oromo.

For many, Harar is Islam’s fourth holiest city, its old town holding 90-plus mosques. To its south, the holy tomb of Sheikh Hussein in Hussein attracts an estimated 50,000 pilgrims a year. To the north, and known for their fierce independence, the Afar clans of the Danakil Desert are pastoralists and keepers of the salt routes that run to and from salt flats located near the likes of Dallol.

Very much off the beaten track, much of the Eastern Circuit offers the traveller an experience of an Ethiopia much influenced by a range of cultures, and as much by Islam as it has been Christianity.
About Ethiopia

History

History-Ethiopia-by Experience Ethiopia
The only African state to resist the colonising interests of Europe, Ethiopia’s history is more than the story of a nation forged by a monarchy that traced its lineage back to King Soloman and the Queen of Sheba. Home to the fossilised remains of some of the world’s earliest hominoids, it is a strong contender for being the cradle of mankind. Prior to adopting Christianity in the fourth century, it possessed an empire large enough to act as counterweight to those of Rome and Persia. After the fall of Haile Selassie, it fell under the rule of the Dergue, a dictatorship that had the backing of the Soviet Union and Cuba. Today, it continues to make history, its newest prime minister hailing from an ethnic group once excluded from the corridors of power, whose cabinet is gender balanced, and who has managed to initiate the beginnings of peace with neighbouring Eritrea.

As complicated as it is fascinating, it is a history that leaves us with Ethiopia, Africa’s second most populous country, and one whose star is once again very much on the rise.

From Lucy to Axum

The land that constitutes Ethiopia today was home to some of our earliest ancestors. Since the discovery of million-year-old stone tools in 1963, and the unearthing of the Australophithecine fossil Lucy in 1974, the likes of the Awash and the Omo have continued to provide clues as to the origins of man. As well as the discovery of the oldest tools and tool use found anywhere, finds by Richard Leakey show that homo sapiens walked its lands nearly 200,000 years ago.

Fast forward to the Bronze Age and northeast Ethiopia is part of the Land of Punt, an ancient kingdom that traded with Ancient Egypt as early as 3000 BC. Another 2,300 years and we have the diminutively named D’mt, the first of several pre-Axumite kingdoms. By the first century AD, much of the Horn of Africa is home to the Kingdom of Axum, which will convert to Christianity in 333 AD, and which at its height would stretch as far north as Egypt, conquer much of Arabia, and control trade in and out of the Red Sea.

Birth of an Almost Hidden Empire

Faced with diminishing resources, competition from new trade routes, and the spread of Islam, the Axumites abandoned Axum in around 600 AD, retreating into the highlands. In 1000 AD, they gave way to the Zagwa, Judaic converts to Christianity. With Roha (Lalibela) as the new capital, this was a period of relative peace and technological progress. Ethiopia’s earliest rock churches were built during this time. Things continued apace under the Solomonic dynasty, which came to power in the 13th century, expanding its territory, and rotating through several capitals before settling on Gondor.
The dynasties did not, as once thought, develop in perfect isolation. Evidence points to intermittent trade and alliances between different Christian and Muslim territories, and to contact being maintained with Jerusalem and Alexandria, and latterly with Mediterranean Europe, particularly Portugal, whose interests would variously support and undermine the kingdom between 1520 and 1640. The Hidden Empire was findable, for those prepared to look.

The Making of a Modern State

The Solomonic dynasty grew considerably during the modern period. Protracted inter-dynastic infighting continued, new territories were consolidated, and increased European interest resulted in greater contact with the outside world. In 1896, Menelik II’s army routed Italy at the Battle of Adwa, and by the time Haile Selassie took the throne in 1935, Ethiopia once again occupied the same territory as that ruled by the Axumites, less Arabia.

However, the twentieth century brought enormous change. The feudal systems of governance that the dynasty depended on began to unravel in the latter part of the century. Weakened by corruption, famine, military unrest, and poverty, Selassie was deposed in 1974 by the Dergue. Abolishing feudalism, it declared Ethiopia a Marxist-Leninist state, and proceeded to rule absolutely, executing political enemies in the tens of thousands. The Dergue dissolved itself in 1987, its key figures heading up the new People’s Democratic Republic of Ethiopia, which would last until 1991, when the Ethiopian People’s Revolutionary Democratic Front (EPRDF) successfully took power.
Now a democratically elected coalition party, the EPRDF remains in power today. In 2018, the first non-Tigrayan president took power, ushering in a new era, one that included a gender-balanced cabinet, a world first.
About Ethiopia

Landscape

All countries are beautiful, but Ethiopia is especially so. Traversed by the Rift Valley, which runs diagonally from the Red Sea through central Ethiopia and out into northern Kenya and Uganda, it possesses a topography dominated by a high central plateau, which sits either side of the rift, and is surrounded - to the north, to the east, and to the west - by desert.

This mix of high plateau, rift and desert makes for an extraordinarily varied landscape. Both Simien and Bale mountain ranges are large enough to possess their own microclimates. The central plateau is source of a network of rivers, including the Blue Nile. Well-watered, the southern and western highlands are marked by indigenous forest, the central plateau by montane grasslands and woodlands. Vegetation thins out to the north of the plateau, and to the east.

Away from its highlands, Ethiopia possesses its own savannahs. The acacia dotted grasslands of the Rift Valley are reminiscent of those in Kenya. The xeric grass and shrublands of the north-east are a place of very little rain, of extreme heat, and high in tectonic activity - hence marvels like the Danakil Depression, volcanic Erta Ale, and the salt flats of Dallol.

Ethiopia is a staggeringly beautiful country. Having spent years working championing low volume, high impact travel, Wild Expeditions has the knowhow with which to host trips to some of its remotest and most beautiful parts.
About Ethiopia

Climate

Ethiopia lies north of the Equator and constitutes most of the Horn of Africa. Given its position and its topography, its general climate ranges from tropical in the lowlands to temperate and cool in the highlands. As a very loose rule, the best time to travel northern Ethiopia is during its dry season, which runs from September through to March, while best times in the south are November to March and June to September. However, depending on interest, there’s no reason why you can’t travel the country at any time of the year.

Seasonal Rains

Like many sub-Saharan countries, Ethiopia’s seasonal rains are largely dictated by the Inter-Tropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ), a weather front that oscillates back and forth across the Equator. The long rains or Kiremt occur in the northern highlands in July and August, and the central highlands in June and September. The shorter rains or Belg occur in the south between March and May, and variously in the northern and central highlands between February and May. As the ITCZ moves south, another set of very short rains called the Bega briefly waters much of central and south-west Ethiopia. The further west you travel, the wetter it gets.

Climatic Zones

Ethiopia’s range of altitudes make for a series of climatic zones. The main three are the coldish and less than temperate Dega, the warm and wet Weyna, and the drier and warmer Kolla. More extreme zones include the low-desert Bereha and the afro-alpine Worch. Travellers on the historical northern circuit will inevitably experience Dega and Weyna, and occassionally, depending on whether they venture into the Simien Mountains, Worch. The same is true of the Southern Circuit’s Bale Mountains. Those travelling the lowlands in the southwest are more likely to experience Kolla, while the few that visit the deserts of the east, the northeast, and the southeast, will encounter Bereha.

An All Year-round Destination

Given its varying altitudes, topographical features and associated micro-climates, it is perfectly possible to travel in Ethiopia throughout the year. The north is huge, its west much wetter than its east, and its altitude is more of an influence on temperature and rainfall than elsewhere, all of which allows for a degree of cherry picking, whatever the season. Depending on interest and destination, the south, meanwhile, can be visited during its off-seasons, especially in areas of low rainfall, and if your interest is green season wildlife behaviour. Relatively dry throughout the year, the Omo Valley can be visited most of the year, while the Bale Mountains experiences a single rainy season, and therefore offers better travel between November and February.
About Ethiopia

Wildlife

Ethiopia travel is not primarily a wildlife destination, the great swathes of animals it once held decimated by habitat loss, disease, and historic hunting. However:

Home to a host of endemic mammal and bird life, it remains a coveted destination among wildlife specialists. At least 36 species of mammal are endemic, 12 of which are large mammals. Meanwhile, between 18 and 20 species of bird are endemic. Endemic mammals include walia ibex, Ethiopian wolf, mountain nyala, Menelik’s bushbuck, gelada baboon, Swayne’s hartebeest, Bale Mountains ververt and giant mole-rat. Endemic birds include blue-winged goose, Ethiopian siskin, yellow-throated seedeater and Prince Raspoli’s Turaco.

Though depleted in number, the country is home to at least 320 species of mammal, a considerable range of diversity, and one that matches most other African wildlife destinations.

As the standard of mobile camp travel improves, so the emergence of a fascinating East-West wildlife belt, which includes Gambella, Omo National Park, Chebera Churchura, Senkele, Bale and Ali Deghe. Travel here is hardy, adventurous, and super rewarding.

Whatever its low numbers of each species of mammal, the country is a bird and butterfly paradise. Resident and migratory birds totalled, species number over 860. Meanwhile, there are well over 300 butterfly species.

Travel to Ethiopia is increasingly taking note of its wildlife. Having long championed private canvas travel in Ethiopia, experience Ethiopia is one of the few capable of organising trips designed to make the most of the country’s wilderness and wildlife.
Travel Tips

Health & Safety and Medical & Travel Insurance

Please refer to UK Foreign Office and US State Department for up-to-date travel advice to Ethiopia. Do note that travel insurance should be bought at the same time as booking your trip. If travelling from the US, you must obtain insurance within 21 days of paying your deposit to your travel operator. We advise that you insure for trip cancellation, medical repatriation and force majeure. When asked, we usually refer our US clients to Travel Guard. UK clients are issued standard ATOL insurance certificates, which cover loss of money and repatriation should something adverse happen to the travel operator whilst you are away.

Language

Amharic, with its unique alphabet is the official language, although over 80 local languages are spoken. English is the second official language and is understood in most hotels in major towns. Arabic, French and Italian are also widely understood.

LGBTQ+

It is important to be aware of cultural traditions and government policies in Ethiopia. Please be mindful of the cultural sensitivity around LGBTQ+ people and relationships, as many African countries are conservative when it comes to same-sex relationships, gender reassignment, or any other LGBTQ+ rights. We suggest visiting the International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans and Intersex Association (ILGA) website and their Sexual Orientation Laws Map for more detailed information. Travelling as a LGBTQ+ person is by no means to be avoided. However, we do recommend researching thoroughly prior to travel.

Baggage Restrictions

International and official regional carriers have standard luggage allowances, but when travelling to Ethiopia there are often additional light aircraft flights/ transfers that carry different luggage weight and carrier restrictions that you will need to be aware of before you start packing.

For scheduled flight transfers in Ethiopia there is a luggage restriction of 20kg maximum per person. You are able to travel with one small carry on, which must not exceed 7kgs. Please tag each item of luggage with contact details and the first destination. It is also recommended that if you are travelling with family or a partner, share the load between you in case one bag gets lost.

Private charter flights are restricted to 15kg, including hand luggage and camera equipment. These weight restrictions and limitations on the baggage are strictly adhered to. Only soft bags (no hard suitcases can be transported as they physically cannot fit into the aircraft) will be accepted. The maximum dimensions of the soft bags which can be accommodated are as follows: 38cm (15 inches) wide x 30cm (12 inches) high and 68cm (27 inches) long.

Luggage that goes missing on scheduled flights is beyond the control of Journeys by Design and/or the airline concerned. Should you lose your luggage, we will endeavour to assist in returning your bags as soon as possible. Any additional costs incurred in retrieval should be covered by your travel insurance company.

Passengers weighing more than 100kg (220 lbs) must advise us in advance as an extra seat may need to be factored in for safety purposes.

International flights and Arrival & Departure

Ethiopia Airlines is a major carrier and Addis Ababa has become an international flight hub, with numerous routes to and from the US, EU and Asia. Wild Expeditions does not organise clients’ international flights. On arrival, clients are met in the arrivals hall by our ground agent. On departure, the check-in time required by the airlines is 3 hours prior to flight departure.

Internal flights

Please note that internal flights only operate in daylight hours and tickets are issued locally. In the case of private charters, there are no tickets. Your camp manager and ground agent will have details of your internal flights.

Scheduled Flights:

Whilst flight arrangements are pre-booked at published times, in the event of any delay due to unforeseen circumstances beyond our control, we cannot be held responsible. We will do our best to facilitate alternative arrangements.

Private and Shared Charter Flights:

For regular Private Charter flights, we use single engine aircrafts with one pilot. However, provision can be made for a twin engine aircraft with two pilots at an extra cost. Wild Expeditions has a two-pilot Cessna 208, a grand caravan with Garmin 1000 GPS.

The timetable for Private and Shared Charter flights are often only set the day before travel. This means that it is often very difficult to be precise about timings. However, as a rule of thumb, they tend to depart shortly after breakfast. The relevant camp managers are responsible for checking and confirming these times ahead of departure.

Flights are strictly subject to runway conditions and serviceability. In the event that the destination airport or airstrip is deemed by the pilot as unsuitable for our aircraft, we will divert to the nearest alternative airport or airstrip.
Please inform us in advance if you weigh over 100 kg (220 lbs) or more as an extra seat must be purchased for safety and comfort.

Ground transport (including transfers)

All ground transportation is in 7 – 9 seater vehicles (for urban transfers) or in 4x4 Landrovers or Landcruisers when on safari. Game drives are in open Landrover 4x4 style vehicles and/or boats, and canoes. Private use of vehicles cannot always be guaranteed. Should you wish, special arrangements can be made in advance to secure a private safari vehicle, which does come at an additional cost.

Currency and Exports

There is no limit to the amount of foreign currency you can take into the country, although sums over $10,000 must be declared. The amount of local currency you can take out of the country is restricted. It’s best to travel with suitable cash in small denomination US$ notes for tipping. If you budget about US$30 per person per day for extras, you should be well-covered. Only the major banks and main hotels change foreign currency. ATMs (Dashen Bank) are available at Addis Ababa, Bahir Dar, Gondar, Mekele, Dessie, Awassa and Dire Dawa. Please note that credit cards are not widely recognised in Ethiopia. It is illegal to export historical artefacts, shells, coral, ivory and turtle shell, as is exporting foodstuffs, plants or plant based products.

Tipping

Although some camps and lodges now accept credit card, we strongly advise to tip using cash instead. Tipping of your driver/ guide/ staff and other incidental guides or helpers is not compulsory, but is customary, and will be left to your discretion. Please remember that tipping amounts should be viewed in a local context and your average camp staff will probably earn about US$ 200 per month. Generally tipping breaks down into four main areas.: general camp staff, guide, incidental support, and manager. Please view the below as an acceptable minimum if you have received adequate service:

1 General Camp Staff

As a rule of thumb, US$20 per person per day to cover all camp staff is acceptable. Lodges will normally provide you with an envelope for camp staff gratuities. This should be handed in on departure. Smaller camps and lodges have a small communal tip box where you can leave your tips for the manager to sort out later. If they do not, then please give the tip to the manager - in full view of other members of staff - upon departure.

2 Your Guide

Again, US$20 per person per day for your guide is acceptable. Lodges will normally provide you with an envelope for guide gratuities. This should be tipped at the end of the safari and is dependent on how well you think that he or she has done his or her job. If you are a small group or family we suggest tipping no more than a total US$ 60 per day to the guide.

3 Incidental guides, trackers, other drivers

No hard and fast rules here, but if you assume that one day’s good work is probably worth about US$5 per person per day then you can’t go too far wrong. Restaurants and the like take the usual 10%. For porters and other minor assistance $2 would be very generous. Occasionally you might be escorted by an armed park ranger, particularly if you are walking. A one-off US$10 tip would be well received as park staff are invariably poorly paid.

4 The Manager

We do not recommend tipping managers. There is a shortage of the more usual photographic supplies throughout Ethiopia, so visitors are advised to bring plentiful supplies with them. It may be useful to consider bringing two spare rechargeable batteries and charger to ensure you are not left without batteries for your camera. A pair of good binoculars will be a great asset to the safari. We recommend 10 x 32 for excellent magnification and size.

It is not permitted to take photographs of the President, policemen, members of the armed forces, military installation, prisons or prisoners, airports and where public signs forbid photography. The people of Ethiopia, like other nations, do not like to be treated as ‘exhibits’, no matter how innocent the interest. It is essential to gain the full co-operation of the subject before hand, and in this regard the drivers/ guides will be happy to help and give advice about photographing people.

In some areas - and particularly the Omo - tourism of the worst kind has had the effect of reducing interaction between guest and host to a commercial exchange, with visitors paying for photographs. Our safaris into the likes of the Omo are very different, with any negotiations handled in advance by your guide, and many of the experiences camera-free. While initially an odd feeling, not having a camera allows for a different and, ultimately, much more rewarding experience.
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